Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Captain's Log

Now that our trip is behind us it's time to reminisce and before it's too late I want to list some details that should be captured for the archives. Just one month ago we were in the middle of our adventure and already our efforts to recall it are becoming opaque as we've readjusted to workaday life. Sometimes Mary and I sit around and ask each other questions about something we saw, or where we were, or where we stayed, and all such variety of questions. It quickly became apparent that it's all running together in our heads and only the strongest memories are easily recalled. As a partial solution to this problem I've gathered up the notes we took along the way and I've used them, along with some other data, to compile a log that lists the vital details of each day. Jump ahead and take a look at Day #1 below as an example and you'll see our daily start and stop points along with the distances covered, the time we traveled, the dams we encountered, the places we stayed, what we ate, when we put on fuel, etc...

Time and Distance
The mileage for each of our stopping locations is indicated by the Corp of Engineers "Mile Marking System". This is listed next to each place with an entry like MM845 which stands for mile marker 845.  These make a handy and accurate way to calculate distances and account for the winding nature of the river. If you know the mile markers for two different places then you can find the distance between them by simply subtracting the mile marker values. The daily and cumulative mile totals are listed as well as the time en route. I thought it would be interesting to know the elapsed time between our daily departure and arrival locations and I was able to capture this time by using a tracking app on my cell phone.  It logged thousands of time stamps that tell me the exact time we were at a given location anywhere along our route. If I want to know when I was in a certain place I can just look it up by placing the time stamps onto Google maps or something equivalent. What I see in doing this is a"popcorn" trail of our route except with modern technology each piece of popcorn has written on it the time I was there.

Speed
Don't be confused by the relatively low entry for our Daily Average Speed. Believe me when I say the Blue Fin was cruising along at 20 mph most of the time.  The daily average is simply the distance covered in a day divided by the time between departure and arrival. It captures all delays and stops for dams, food, fuel etc. It better conveys the general feel of the day's pace.

Fueling
When fueling I always filled up all of the containers we had and it usually took 6 to 12 gallons to fill them all. Fuel prices were generally in the range of $4.25 to $4.75 per gallon meaning a stop cost roughly $30-$60.  The total trip fuel cost was about $750 as determined from our credit card receipts.

Lodging
Take note of the places we lodged and the star rating scale I put behind each entry. It's my,"made up" scale and it's relative only to this trip.  Look also for the Y or N after the stars.  This indicates either a Yes or No as to whether we'd stay at this place again. Don't be perplexed by a low star rating along with a Y.  It means we were choosing for convenience of location rather than amenities. We tried as often as possible to stay close to the river allowing us to use our preferred mode of either walking or making use of our bicycles for ground transportation. Had we a car to get to places further into the river towns then you'd see fewer one and two star places.

After having actually executed this trip I'm convinced that anyone could replicate it with very little alteration. The distances covered, towns visited, services available, dams encountered etc can all be easily reenacted by anyone with a boat, a wallet full of money, and enough gumption.  The biggest variable that might affect a reliving of the trip is perhaps the speed of the boat. Our actual running speed was usually 20 mph and in going significantly less than this it might not be possible to make it between the stopping points that we did. Moving faster, as on a jetski, might allow one to skip every other town, but remember the delays at dams can easily double the expected travel time between points. In some sense this makes a speedy jetski self defeating if the dam delays get too long.

I've been asked by many if I'd repeat a trip like this. My answer is a simple, "what for?  Now it's your turn". To be honest there are parts I would and probably will repeat and others that I will not. The Mississippi River in the MN, WI, IA area is nice and, since it's close to our home, I'm sure we'll re-visit some places in the same manner as we did on this trip.  I'd like to visit the Kentucky Lake and Tennessee River area again but to do it by boat would be difficult so perhaps by car or our motorhome is the best possibility. Immediately after our return home Mary said she had enough river boating to last a life time.  Now with only a few weeks behind us, when asked, she agrees that maybe it would be fun to repeat some segments of the trip again. That's promising.

Before you drift down into the list below I'll summarize a few key highlights here:
The total distance we traveled:  1697 miles.
Total hours underway: 143h:05m
Overall trip average speed: 11.8 mph
Number of days we got rained on: 3
I don't have the exact figure but the rough cost of the trip was about $4800 or about $200 per day. This includes gas, food, and lodging. The Blue Fin cost about $6500 by the time it was all fixed up so an approximate grand total is $11,300. I had originally set my upper limit cost at around $15,000 so I'm pleased with this figure and it's satisfying to know the value of the boat is still intact and should be serviceable for quite a few years.

As proof of the Blue Fin's continued value it's already been to Lake Minnetonka and to the Apostle Islands in Lake Superior in the short time since it's return from the gulf.  My children have been making good use of it and I'm glad to see every dollar of value wrung from it. And Matt explained to me that he was questioned at the boat launch on Lake Minnetonka as to where the boat was last in the water and where it will be going to next. The state of Minnesota puts staff at the popular boat launches to gather data for tracking the spread of Eurasian milfoil and zebra mussels and routinely asks boaters this question. I'm sure most often the answer is less spectacular than Matt's response of, "it was last in the gulf of Mexico and it will next be in Lake Superior".  The Blue Fin is surely no slouch amongst boats.

OK, here's the list:

Day 1 - Thursday July 4, 2013 
Depart: Watergate Marina in St Paul at 12:30PM , MM845
Arrive: Ole Miss Marina in Red Wing, MN at 5:50PM, MM791
Time en route 5h:20m
Cumulative Time en route 5h:20m
Distance: 54 miles, cumulative miles 54.
Daily average speed 7.5 mph
Lock and Dam: #3
Dinner: Walk to Red Wing Brewery, pizza and beer.
Lodging: Nichols Inn Motel. ***Y
Ground Transportation: Bicycle 1 mile.
Fuel: Filled up on land before launch
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Friends Joe and Terry tagged along in their boat.

Day 2 - Friday July 5, 2013
Depart: Ole Miss Marina Red Wing, MN 8:45 AM, MM791
Arrive: Riverfront Motel+Marina in Lacrosse, WI at 5:30PM, MM698
Time en route 7h:45m
Cumulative Time en route 13h:05m
Distance: 93 miles, cumulative 147 miles.
Daily average speed 10.5 mph
Lock and Dam: #4, #5, #5A, #6, and #7. The most in one day
Dinner: On site, River Jacks Restaurant, pork chop dinner.
Lodging: Best Western Riverfront Motel. **Y
Ground Transportation: Walk from courtesy dock at motel.
Fuel: #1 Fill up enroute at Lake City, MN Marina.
          #2 Fill up enroute at Winona, MN Marina
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Entered Black River to access motel. Lost reserve gas tank off back of boat.

Day 3 - Saturday July 6, 2013
Depart: Riverfront Motel and Marina in Lacrosse, WI at 8:10AM, MM698
Arrive: Bill's Boat Landing in Clayton, IA at 3:45 PM, MM625
Time en route 7h:35m
Cumulative Time en route 20h:40m
Distance: 73 miles, cumulative 220 miles.
Daily average speed 8.7 mph.
Lock and Dam: #8, and #9.
Dinner: On site, Bill's Boat Landing, burgers and fries.
Lodging: Claytonian Inn. **Y
Ground Transportation: Walked 1 block to motel.
Fuel: Fill up enroute Brownsville, MN marina
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Passed through slough at Harpers Ferry.

Day 4 - Sunday July 7, 2013 
Depart: Bill's Boat Landing in Clayton, IA at 9:10 AM, MM625
Arrive: Dubuque Yacht Basin in Dubuque, IA at 3:45 PM, MM581
Time en route 6h:35m
Cumulative Time en route 27h:40m
Distance: 44 miles, cumulative 264 miles
Daily average speed 5.6 mph
Lock and Dam: #10, and #11.
Dinner: On site, Caroline's Restaurant, pasta.
Lodging: The Julien Hotel. ****Y
Ground Transportation: Bicycle 2 miles.
Fuel: Fill up enroute Guttenberg, IA Marina
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Navigated the Potosi, WI channel to get beer. Visited family and relatives.

Day 5 - Mon July 8, 2013
Depart: Dubuque Yacht Basin in Dubuque, IA at 11:10 AM, MM581
Arrive: Savanna Marina in Savanna, IL at 3:40 PM, MM537
Time en route 4h:30m
Cumulative Time en route 32h:10m
Distance: 44 miles, cumulative 308 miles.
Daily average speed 10.9 mph
Lock and Dam: #12
Dinner: Bicycle to Manny's Pizza, pizza and salad.
Lodging: L+M Motel *Y
Ground Transportation: Bicycle 1.5 miles.
Fuel: Fill up at departure Dubuque, IA Ice Harbor Marina
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Entered mouth of the Galena River for fun.

Day 6 - Tuesday July 9, 2013
Depart: Savanna Marina in Savanna, IL at 9:20 AM, MM537
Arrive: Muscatine Public Marina in Muscatine, IA at 6:00 PM, MM455
Time en route 8h:40m
Cumulative Time en route 40h:50m
Distance: 82 miles, cumulative 390 miles.
Daily average speed 7.6 mph
Lock and Dam: #13, #14, #15, and #16.
Dinner: Walk to Applebee's, steak dinner.
Lodging: Super 8 Motel. *N
Ground Transportation: Bicycle 2.5 miles.
Fuel: #1 Fill up en route at Clinton, IA Marina
         #2 Fill up en route at Le Claire, IA Marina
Weather: Windy rain AM, Sunny, warm PM.
Misc: Storm when behind L+D #13.

Day 7 - Wednesday July 10, 2013
Depart: Muscatine Public Marina in Muscatine, IA at 9:45 AM, MM455
Arrive: Captain Kirk's Marina in Ft Madison, IA at 3:15 PM, MM384
Time en route 5h:30m
Cumulative Time en route 46h:20m
Distance: 71 miles, cumulative 461 miles.
Daily average speed 10.7 mph
Lock and Dam: #17 and #18.
Dinner: Walk to Chuong Garden, moo shu pork and seafood delight.
Lodging: Kingsley Inn   ***Y
Ground Transportation: Walk 4 blocks.
Fuel: Fill up enroute at Burlington, IA Marina
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc:

Day 8 - Thursday July 11, 2013
Depart: Captain Kirk's Marina in Ft Madison, IA at 9:20 AM, MM384
Arrive: Two Rivers Marina in Louisiana, MO at 5:50 PM, MM283
Time en route 8h:30m
Cumulative Time en route 54h:50m
Distance: 101 miles, cumulative 562 miles.
Daily average speed 9.8 mph
Lock and Dam: #19, #20, #21, and #22.
Dinner: Walk to Pikers Restaurant.
Lodging: Rivers Edge Motel *Y
Ground Transportation: car pickup by motel proprietor.
Fuel: #1 Fill up at Captain Kirk's before departure.
         #2 Fill up en route at Quincy, IL
         #3 Fill up at Two Rivers Marina at arrival.
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Marina and motel on opposite sides of river across long narrow bridge.

Day 9 - Friday July 12, 2013
Depart: Two Rivers Marina in Louisiana, MO at 8:50 AM, MM283
Arrive: Alton Marina in Alton, IL at 3:40 PM, MM203
Time en route 6h:50m
Cumulative Time en route 61h:40m
Distance: 80 miles, cumulative 642 miles.
Daily average speed 8.9 mph
Lock and Dam: #24, and #25.
Dinner: Walk to Princivali's Italian Cafe, Pasta Meatballs & Eggplant Parm.
Lodging: George St Inn **Y
Ground Transportation: Bicycle 2 miles.
Fuel: Fill up at Alton Marina Alton, IL at arrival.
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: There is no L+D #23.

Day 10 - Saturday July 13, 2013
Depart: Alton Marina in Alton, IL at 10:40 AM, MM203
Arrive: Hoppies Marina in Imperial, MO at 4:30 PM, MM158
Time en route 5h:50m
Cumulative Time en route 67h:30m
Distance: 45 miles, cumulative 687 miles.
Daily average speed 6.5 mph
Lock and Dam: #26 Mel Price, #27 Chain of Rocks.
Dinner: Nick and Mary's house, various tasty food and good desert.
Lodging: Nick and Mary's house.
Ground Transportation: 10 miles by car.
Fuel: Fill up at Hoppies Marina at arrival.
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Passed downtown St Louis. Long wait at Mel Price L+D #26

Day 11 - Sunday July 14, 2013
Depart: N/A
Arrive: N/A
Distance: 0 miles, cumulative 687 miles.
Daily average speed 0 mph
Lock and Dam: N/A
Dinner: Nick and Mary's house, various.
Lodging: Nick and Mary's house.
Ground Transportation: N/A
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: A day of non travel. Acquired 5 gallon portable gas can to carry along.

Day 12 - Mon July 15, 2013
Depart: Hoppies Marina in Imperial, MO at 7:45 AM, MM158
Arrive: Red Star Boat Ramp in Cape Girardeau, MO at 2:50 PM, MM53
Time en route 7h:05m
Cumulative Time en route 74h:35m
Distance: 105 miles, cumulative 792 miles.
Daily average speed 13.1 mph
Lock and Dam: None
Dinner: Walk to Outback Steakhouse, Cobb salad + spinach flat bread.
Lodging: Hampton Inn.  ***Y
Ground Transportation: 4 miles by truck that was also towing the boat.
Fuel: Fill up at Cape Girardeau gas station while boat on trailer.
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Pulled from river using truck and trailer by Dustin of King Marine. Had engine oil changed.

Day 13 - Tuesday July 16, 2013
Depart: Red Star Boat Ramp in Cape Girardeau, MO at 8:50 AM, Miss MM53
Arrive: Green Turtle Bay Marina in Grand Rivers, TN at 7:50 PM
Mississippi MM 53 to MM0 then Ohio MM981 to MM923, and then Cumberland MM0 to MM47. Total = 158 miles.
Time en route 11h:00m  (our longest day)
Cumulative Time en route 85h:00m
Distance: 158 miles, cumulative 950 miles.
Daily average speed 7.1 mph
Lock and Dam: Barkley Dam on Cumberland River.
Dinner: Walk to Patti's 1880's Settlement, shrimp skewers w/ asparagus
Lodging: Grand Rivers Inn.  *Y
Ground Transportation: Bicycle 1.5 miles.
Fuel: Carried 5 gallon portable can to gas station in Paducah, KY
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Experienced first "water in fuel" problem.

Day 14 - Wednesday July 17, 2013
Depart: Green Turtle Bay Marina in Grand Rivers, TN at 11:00 AM, Tennessee River MM25
Arrive: Paris Landing State Resort Marina, TN at 2:45 PM, MM66
Time en route 3h:45m
Cumulative Time en route 88h:45m
Distance: 41 miles, cumulative 991 miles
Daily average speed 10.7 mph
Dinner: On site, Buffet at State Park Resort, chicken and fish
Lodging: Paris Landing State Park Resort Lodge.  **Y
Ground Transportation: 1 mile courtesy ride on golf cart by park ranger.
Fuel: #1 Fill up at Green Turtle Bay upon departure.
          #2 Fill up at Paris Landing marina upon arrival.
Weather: Sunny, warm. Storm after arrival at Paris Landing
Misc: Traversed Kentucky Lake in calm conditions.

Day 15 - Thursday July 18, 2013
Depart: Paris Landing State Resort Marina, TN at 9:00 AM, MM66
Arrive: Clifton Marina in Clifton, TN at 3:45 PM, MM 159
Time en route 6h:45m
Cumulative Time en route 95h:30m
Distance: 93 miles, cumulative 1084 miles
Daily average speed 11.7 mph
Lock and Dam: None
Dinner: On site, Bear Inn Restaurant, burgers and fries.
Lodging: The Bear Inn Resort. ***Y
Ground Transportation: 1.5 miles in car of Bear Inn Proprietor.
Fuel: Fill up at Clifton Marina upon arrival.
Weather: Sunny, warm.   Isolated rain shower around noon.
Misc: Allison Boat rally on Tennessee River and at Bear Inn.

Day 16 - Friday July 19, 2013
Depart: Clifton Marina in Clifton, TN at 9:30 AM, MM159
Arrive: Pickwick Landing State Resort Marina, TN at 2:45 PM, MM207
Time en route 5h:15m
Cumulative Time en route 100h:45m
Distance: 48 miles, cumulative 1132 miles
Daily average speed 5.5 mph
Lock and Dam: Pickwick Dam
Dinner: On site, Buffet at State Park Resort, catfish
Lodging: Pickwick Landing State Park Resort Lodge. **Y
Ground Transportation: Bicycle 1 mile.
Fuel: Fill up at Pickwick Landing Marina upon arrival.
Weather: Sunny, warm.  PM storm after arrival.
Misc:

Day 17 - Saturday July 20, 2013
Depart: Pickwick Landing State Resort Marina, TN at 8:00 AM, Tenn MM207 to MM215 then start Tenn-Tom Waterway MM450
Arrive: Midway Marina, Fulton, MS at 2:20 PM, Tenn-Tom Waterway MM394
Time en route 6h:20m
Cumulative Time en route 107h:05m
Distance: 63 miles, cumulative 1195 miles
Daily average speed 8.8 mph
Lock and Dam: #50 Jamie Whiten, #49 Sonny Montgomery, and #48 John Rankin.
Dinner: Bicycle to Homer's Restaurant, southern BBQ dinner
Lodging: Sands Motel. *N
Ground Transportation: Bicycle 2.5 miles.
Fuel: Fill up at Fulton Marina upon arrival.
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Lost boat key so back and forth to motel twice. Used hidden spare.

Day 18 - Sunday July 21, 2013
Depart: Fulton Marina, Fulton, MS at 9:30 AM, MM394
Arrive: Columbus Marina in Columbus, MS at 2:30 PM, MM334
Time en route 5h:00m
Cumulative Time en route 112h:05m
Distance: 60 miles, cumulative 1255 miles
Daily average speed 10.4 mph
Lock and Dam: #47 Fulton, #46 Glover Wilkins, and #45 Amory, #44 Aberdeen
Dinner: Walk to Logan's Restaurant, Meat loaf.
Lodging: Fairfield Inn. ***Y
Ground Transportation: By car 5 miles by wife of marina staff. Return in cab.
Fuel: Fill up at Columbus Marina upon arrival.
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Misc: Second episode of gas problems while at Aberdeen locks.

Day 19 - Monday July 22, 2013
Depart: Columbus Marina in Columbus, MS at 9:00 AM, MM334
Arrive: Demopolis Yacht Basin Marina, MS at 6:00 PM, MM217
Time en route 9h:00m
Cumulative Time en route 121h:05m
Distance: 117 miles, cumulative 1372 miles
Daily average speed 8.7 mph
Lock and Dam: #43 John Stennis, and #42 Tom Bevill
Dinner: On site, New Orleans Bar and Grill, crab cakes and mozzarella sticks
Lodging:  Riverview Inn Motel *Y
Ground Transportation: Walk, motel onsite at marina.
Fuel: Fill up at Demopolis Yacht Basin upon arrival.
Weather: Sunny warm AM, Storm and lingering rain PM
Misc: Line of thunderstorms 50 miles to our north at time of departure. They caught up with us at Gainesville. Third episode of gas problems north of Gainesville. Finally got gas drier additive and solved problem once and for all.

Day 20 - Tuesday July 23, 2013 
Depart: Demopolis Yacht Basin Marina, MS at 6:45 AM, MM217
Arrive: Bobbys Fish Camp, MS at 12:00 noon, MM119
Time en route 5h:15m
Cumulative Time en route 126h:20m
Distance: 98 miles, cumulative 1470 miles
Daily average speed 10.8 mph
Lock and Dam: #41 Howell Heflin.
Dinner: No available restaurant. Ate in room from canned food supplies we had with us, chicken noodle soup and Spam on crackers.
Lodging: Cottage at Bobbys Fish Camp  *Y
Ground Transportation: Walk, cottage onsite at marina.
Fuel: Fill up at Bobbys upon arrival.
Weather: Sunny, warm. PM storm after arrival at Bobbys
Misc:

Day 21 - Wednesday July 24, 2013
Depart: Bobbys Fish Camp, MS at 6:30 AM, MM119
Arrive: Grand Mariner Marina, Dog River, Mobile, AL at 2:15 PM, MM0
Time en route 7h:45m
Cumulative Time en route 134h:05m
Distance: 119 miles, cumulative 1589 miles
Daily average speed 10.7 mph
Lock and Dam: Coffeville
Dinner: Walk to Godfather's, pizza
Lodging: Holiday Inn  **Y
Ground Transportation: 5 miles in car of Troy who we met at marina. Return in motel courtesy van.
Fuel: Fill up at Grand Mariner Marina upon arrival.
Weather: Sunny, warm. Moderate to light chop in Mobile Bay
Misc: Had planned to stop at Fairhope on eastern shore but Mobile Bay too rough.

Day 22 - Thursday July 25, 2013
Depart: Grand Mariner Marina, AL at 7:50 AM
Arrive: Homeport Marina, Al at 10:00 AM
Time en route 2h:10m
Cumulative Time en route 136h:15m
Distance: 33 miles, cumulative 1622 miles
Daily average speed 15.3 mph
Lock and Dam: none
Dinner: Chineese food delivered to motel.
Lodging: Travel Lodge *N
Ground Transportation: 1 mile by bicycle.
Fuel: none
Weather: Sunny, warm. Moderate to light chop in Mobile Bay.
Misc: This segment was the crossing of Mobile Bay. We achieved the highest daily speed because no stops were made and the Blue Fin ran at approx 15 mph for the full 2h:10m of the crossing. The water was rough.

Day 23 - Friday July 26, 2013
Depart: Homeport Marina, AL at 10:30 AM
Arrive: Pensacola Beach Marina in Pensacola Beach, FL at 3:00 PM
Time en route 4h:30m
Cumulative Time en route 140h:45m
Distance: 37 miles, cumulative 1659 miles
Daily average speed 8.3 mph
Lock and Dam: none
Dinner: Walk to Shaggy's Restaurant, seafood
Lodging: Hampton Inn  ****Y
Fuel: none
Weather: Sunny, warm.
Ground Transportation: Walking distance to motel.
Misc: Joined by Matt+Erin with a car and the Blue Fin's trailer.

Day 24 - Saturday July 27, 2013
Depart: Pensacola Beach Marina at 11:30 AM
Arrive: AJ's Restaurant Courtesy Dock in Destin, FL at 2:00 PM (our official end point)
Time en route 2h:30m
Cumulative Time en route 143h:05m
Distance: 38 miles, cumulative 1697 miles
Daily average speed 15.2 mph
Lock and Dam: none
Dinner: Boat to AJ's Restaurant, seafood
Lodging: Hampton Inn  ****Y
Ground Transportation: Walking distance to motel.
Fuel: 4 gallons at Navarre, FL.  Need to burn off fuel to lighten trailer load.
Weather: Sunny, warm AM,  Overcast PM
Misc: Returned to Hampton Inn at Pensacola Beach at 5:30 PM

Day 25-26, Sunday and Monday, July 28 and 29, 2013.
Travel by car with boat in tow back to Minneapolis.

And one last thing.  I can't help myself when it comes to stupid things like this so be patient. The propeller on the Blue Fin made the entire trip and came through without the slightest ding and the paint is only slightly worn off.  I think this is beyond amazing and to celebrate I just have to know how many times it went around.

Here goes:
1697 miles X 5280 ft/mile = 8,960,160 feet

8,960,160 ft X 12 in/ft = 107,521,920 inches

The Blue Fin's propeller moves forward 19 inches for each revolution.

107,521,920 inches / 19 in/rev =  5,659,048 revolutions


The Blue Fin's propeller rotated over 
5 million times to get us 2-2 The Gulf.